Aligning Cotter Pins, Cotter Pins (Size/Qty)

I mark the heads of the front and center main bearing bolts with a line that corresponds with the cotter pin hole. This make it easier to position the cotter pin holes when tightening the nuts. This is especially helpful on the center main because the nuts are harder to reach. I use a hacksaw to make the marks, or you could file them. (Nolan Renfro, Lone Star T Newsletter, March 1993)

Did you know?A Model T uses a total of ninety-five cotter pins to help keep it together, and a cotter pin 3/32" in diameter will fit sixty-nine of the places! (From the Flivver Flash)

Battery Disconnect

Those of you in attendance at our January meeting heard that Gerald had experienced a "sudden, unexplained fire" in his dirt-track T Speedster. The car had been sitting, unattended, for several weeks. Gerald went to the garage to retrieve something form a cabinet in front of the T. Needing to move it only a few inches, he grabbed the rear wheel and turned it to move the car. After moving the car, he suddenly noticed smoke billowing from beneath the car and out of the cowl area. Upon disconnecting the battery, the smoke and fire subsided.

Looking at the car we found the "battery" wire from the starter switch to the terminal block on the cowl badly burnt. Further inspection found the same wire from the terminal block to the ammeter also burnt, but the wires on the other side of the meter looked perfect. The cause of the problem was an unexplained internal short in the ammeter (which looked "as new"). I might also mention that all of the wiring was in perfect condition and routed properly to avoid chaffing or shorts.

The above incident can and does occasionally occur due to frayed or un-insulated wiring, pinched or misrouted wires, defective or shorted cut-outs, headlight switches, ignition switches, top light switches, etc., when your battery is not disconnected by either a battery disconnect switch or manually removing a battery post when leaving the car unattended. This makes 5 cars that I have personally seen burning or burnt. Don't let yours be #6. (Prestley Morris, Lone Star T's Newsletter, February 1993.)

Cranking Safety

To avoid accidents from back-firing, when cranking, place the thumb against the index finger and take the handle between the four fingers and the palm of the hand. The hand thus opens readily should a back-kick occur. Always crank up, never down. (Gas Power Magazine, October 1913.)

A Warning From Mike Foote. Mike Foote called me the other day to place an ad in this issue of the Magneto News. He then proceeded to tell me about his "bout" with his Model T. He was cranking the "T" had his thumb under the crank handle, but was pushing down on the crank. And then it happened - the "T" backfired and broke his wrist. He said that the spark lever was in the “UP" position, but for some reason it "kicked" anyway. Now Mike is wondering if you should ever push down on the crank or spin the engine to get it started. Let this be a warning to the rest of our members. (From the Magneto News)

Fix That Sediment Bulb Fuel Leak

One of the aggravating problems one has with a Model T is a fuel leak. One of the most common fuel leaks can be found where the sediment bulb is screwed into the gas tank. I have found that Teflon tape can be used successfully, but this is not a guaranteed repair. A permanent repair can be accomplished by filling the threads on the sediment bulb with solder. First, remove the sediment bulb and thoroughly clean the threads on the bulb which screws into the tank. Next, once the threads are clean, "tin" the threads with solder. While the sediment bulb is hot, fill the threads with solder and then quench the bulb with warm water. If you have a power wire brush wheel, remove the excess solder so the top of the threads can be seen. Now screw the bulb back into the gas tank and any leaks should be a thing of the past. (Author unknown, From T-Time in Canyon Land ~2000.)

Fuel Shut Off

One thing that all Model T's should have is a fuel shut off that is easy to get to. If your carburetor should develop a leak, you could dump as much as nine gallons of gasoline on your garage floor. Install the valve right at the carburetor. This applies to 1926-27 models as well as the older models. The original fuel shut off does not always work. (Royce Peterson, Lone Star T Newsletter, 1990.)

Running Engine with Generator Disconnected From Battery

If for any reason the engine is run with the generator disconnected from the battery, as when battery has been removed for repair or recharging, be sure that the generator is grounded by running a wire from the terminal on generator nearest dash to one of the dust cover screws in the yoke. Two strands of shipping tag wire may be used for this purpose. Be sure the connections at both ends of the wire are tight. Failure to do this when running the engine with the generator disconnected from the battery will result in serious damage to the generator. NEVER GROUND THE GENERATOR THROUGH THE CUT-OUT. (Ford Instruction Manual)

Steering System Safety

I firmly believe in tight bolts, nuts and cotter pins in the Model T steering system. There are either 21 or 22 castellated nuts which should be safetied with cotter pins in this system. Twenty-two were used in cars built after March 1922. If you are not sure about the security of the steering system on your car, check the following: Steering bracket to frame, 3 places; steering shaft to pitman arm, 1 place; steering connecting rod, 4 places; also eliminate any looseness in the ball joints; ball to tie rod attachment, 1 place (1922 and later); tie rod ends, 2 places, steering arm to spindle attachment, 2 places; king pin ends, 2 places, radius rod to axle connection, 2 places; spring shackles, 4 places. There is also the radius rod ball cap, where the nuts should be secured in place with safety wire arranged so that neither the nuts nor the studs will turn to loosen. Cotter pins are a no no in this situation. (Hugo Richter)

Stopping Those Pesky Fuel Leaks

It seems that just about every Model T has a small leak in the carburetor or the sediment bulb. While I addressed a leak around the threads of the sediment bulb in an earlier issue of a T-Time, the problem of the needle and seat in the carburetor and the "tapered" shut-off on the sediment bulb was not addressed. These two areas have a tendency to leak because of wear and dirt. I've found that "lapping" the needle and seat and the shut-off valve and the sediment bulb body with a mixture of oil and baking soda (YES, baking soda!) stopped even the slightest leaks. I also tried thinning down toothpaste with water, yet found this compound was TOO harsh and the leaks continued.

If you have an early brass carburetor, lap the metal needle into the seat and then replace the metal needle with a neoprene needle. It will never leak again!!! (Author unknown, From T-Time in Canyon Land ~2000.)

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