Belt Replacement Pin

A replacement pin for belts joined by a pin through belt hooks may be made from a piece of weed trimmer or weed eater string cut to length. This is just as durable as the rawhide or catgut normally supplied, easier to find and inexpensive. (Ralph Zajicek)

Bushing Tool

Bushings – what a pain they can be, especially when you don’t have the right sized reamer or want to make an extra good fit. Brake cylinder hones can always be used to get the bush to the size you want but the hones are expensive especially when you break a few. An inexpensive tool that does the job well is a piece of 1/4 inch round bar stock about 6-inches long. Cut a slot in the end with a hacksaw blade about 1-1/2 inch long. Then you can use any grit emery paper of sand paper. Make your emery strips the length or the width of a standard sheet, depending on how much room you have, and wrap it around the bar stock. As the paper loads up with removed babbit or brass you can cut off the loaded end to expose fresh surface. (Contributor Unknown)

Eliminate Those Rattles
Brake Rods, Splash Aprons, Front End Brake Rod Clevis, Rear End Gear Noise, Door Hinges, Hood

To quiet down those jangling brake rods, clean off the oil and squirt a little doughnut of clear or black RTV silicone rubber around the pin. The clevis can still be removed when needed because the rubber doesn't bond well to the slightly oil metal. RTV is also good for making instant rubber pads to cushion the edges of the splash aprons where they rattle against the frame and body blocks.

The front end brake rod clevises on my Rocky Mountain brakes were making a rattle when crossing bumps. The problem was solved by squeezing a wiring gromet in between the clevis and equalizing bar, then inserting the pin through the whole stack. The grommet fills in the extra clearance and keeps the joint tight. Several club members are using a short length of rubber hose over the brake rods where they pass near the fenders and the emergency brake rods. Helps keep down the clatter when bumping down those dirt or country roads.

I am using a gear oil additive in the rear end of my T which will quieten the gear noise after a few hundred miles of running. The additive is a moly disulfide suspension made for industrial transmissions by Dow Corning. It is called Molykote M Gear Guard and is available from Motion Industries. The price is about $20 for a quart bottle, which is the smallest size. A T rear end would take about 4 ounces, so a quart will last a long time. I ran this additive for several thousand miles in my roadster, and when the rear end was torn down to install a Ruckstell, the gears looked like the wear surfaces were chromed!

The hinge halves on the doors of my roadster were too worn for even new hinge pins to take up the clearance. I found that the unthreaded shank of a 1/4 bolt was a nice tight fit and removed yet another rattle from my T. Chuck the bolt in a lathe or drill and file a nice round contour on the head then cut the threaded part off so you have a smooth pin. (John Witt, Lone Star T News, 198?)  These tips came from John Witt and those of us who knew him know he had the quietest T in the club (Judy)

The hood can be kept from rattling and squeaking by placing short pieces (cut from felt transmission cover gasket No. 3363) underneath the tpe which is riveted to the dash and radiator shell. (Nolan Renfro)

Frame Riveting Made Easy

Recently several of us helped Jim McGehee rerivet part of his truck frame. The frame looks good and we all had fun learning how to rivet. The following members took part, can you figure out who did what? Jim McGehee, John Albright, Jim Mullen, Nolan Renfro, and Prestley Morris.

Needed:

1. One hard working person to line up and redrill the holes. Time Required: - One day.

2. Someone to saw the rivets to the correct length. Time Required – One hour and a strong arm.

3. Someone to heat the rivets in place with a torch. Time Required – Two hours and a good aim.

4. Someone to buck the rivets on the backside. Time Required – Two hours and lots of courage.

5. Someone to pound the rivet into a head like Henry did. Time Required – Two hours and even better aim.

6. Someone to help hold the frame and the parts in place. Time Required – Two hours and the ability to hold a very hot frame.

That’s all you need? (Jim Mullen)

Get the Most From Your Grinding Wheel

After a short time the wire ends of the wire wheel become rounded and lose effectiveness. When this happens hold a worn out grinding against the wire wheel while it is running. This will sharpen the ends of the wires and point them in the direction opposite rotation. Next turn the wire wheel over so that the sharpened points point in the direction of rotation. Presto! the wire wheel works like new, maybe even better. For safety remember to use goggles or a face shield for all work with a rotating wire wheel. (Hugo Richter, Lone Star T Newsletter, 1990)

Hardened Steel Nuts

Ford used a hardened steel nut on the drive shaft pinion and the rear axle nuts. Don't use mild steel replacement nuts, look for some originals. The original nuts cannot be touched with a file. Ford also used hard steel nuts in many other places. (Royce Peterson)

Headless Rivet Removal

Headless rivets (or pins if you prefer) are found several places on the Model T Ford. They can be the "very devil" to remove - or "easy as pie" if you do it right.

One example of the headless rivet is in the assembly of the emergency brake cam levers on the backing plate. 1905-1925 had two such rivets on each lever!

Each end of the rivet will be peened over so the first step is to remove one peened over end. Do this with a hack saw or file. Next, carefully select a drill bit just slightly smaller than the diameter of the rivet From the headless side - drill toward the remaining peened end to a depth of about 75-80% of the total length of the rivet. Caution - it is very important that you not drill all the way through. Next, select a pin punch slightly smaller than the hole size. Insert punch into hole - strike sharply with a hammer and the rivet will come right out! (Fred Houston (of Tulsa)

Repairing Broken or Chipped Hard Rubber Steering Wheel or Ruckstell Knob

When repairing a broken or chipped hard rubber steering wheel rim or Ruckstell shift know use "Devcon 5 Minute Clear Epoxy" to fill in the gaps or cracks. Mix the epoxy with filings from an old steering wheel-rim. After the repairs are dry, sand with 400 grit paper and polish with rubbing compound. Shift knobs can be covered with clear epoxy for a high gloss look. (Contributor Unknown, November 1979)

Replacement Pin for Belts

A replacement pin for belts joined by a pin through belt hooks may be made from a piece of weed trimmer or weed eater string cut to length. This is just as durable as the rawhide or catgut normally supplied, easier to find and inexpensive. (Ralph Zajicek)

Sloshing Compound and the Fuel Tank

Be sure when you restore a T, to use sloshing compound in the fuel tank, there were several cases on the tour up in Nacogdoches , of carburetor problems, due to stuff breaking loose in the old tanks, clogging the carburetors!

WARNING: If you have used sloshing compound as a sealer inside an old gas tank, DO NOT use GASAHOL, OR ANY ALCOHOL PRODUCT, in your fuel system, as this will dissolve and you have a gooey mess!!! (From the Texas Hill Country Chapter)

Worn Out Brake Handle Pawl (Repair)

After just so many years the old, mild steel, pawl just looses its point and won't keep the handle where it belongs. A weld repair using stainless steel welding rod gives a nice, strong surface that should outlast you. Be sure to make a template before you start to weld so you can dress it down to the right shape. (The Flivver Flash)

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