Care of the Springs

The springs should be lubricated frequently with oil or graphite. To do this, loosen spring clamps, pry the leaves apart near the ends and insert the lubricant between them. This will restore the original flexibility of the springs and improve the riding quality of the car.

It is a good plan to frequently inspect the clips which hold the springs to the frame and see that they are kept tight, otherwise the center bolt may become sheared off—allowing the frame and body to shift a trifle to one side. (Ford Instruction Manual)

Care of the Top

When putting the top down be careful in folding to see that the fabric is not pinched between the bow spacers, as they will chafe a hole through the top very quickly. Applying Ford top dressing will greatly improve the appearance of an old top. (Ford Instruction Manual)

Find Those Dings Before You Paint

When it finally comes time to paint your pride and joy, and you apply the shiny black (red) final coat, nothing will make you more upset than to find a small dent or imperfection you could not feel with your hand or see with the naked eye. When consulting with a "paint and body man", he told me of an easy solution.

Before applying the "final" coat of paint, place a VERY small amount of black (or whatever color you will be using) in the paint cup and fill the rest of the cup with reducer or thinner. This will make a very thin paint solution, almost a colored reducer/thinner. Spray the body parts with this solution and let dry. Now take 400 grit "wet or dry" sandpaper and block sand the part. Any imperfections will be easy to see as the black pigment from the thinned paint will remain in the dents or imperfections. Fill the imperfections with body putty, sand and shoot your paint. Remember, the final coat of paint is the easiest part of painting a car, its all the "preparation" that makes the difference!!! (From T-Time in Canyon Land reprinted in LST News 2000)

P.S. Sherwin William makes a product called “Feather Fill” which will fill in the all those little dings, and scratches. This is a great last coat to put on and sand prior to painting. Remember do not use a electric sander (especially your finally sanding job before painting), and always sand in a circular pattern. Judy C

Lowering the “T” Chassis for Speedster Use

The following will lower the frame height 4 to 5 inches depending on the number of spring leaves use at each end and which type chassis you use. The 26-27 chassis is about 2 ½ inches lower than 09-25 chassis in stock condition.

Using a 15-25 chassis, most common and reasonably priced, change the front spindles to 26-27. This will lower about ½ inch. Using 26-27 front spring assembly will lower another 2 inches. Disassemble the springs and have the main leaf reverse arched (eyes on top). This will lower the frame another inch. To obtain proper lubrication of the bushing you can use earlier type spring shackles (L shaped) with lube fittings in the shackles.

If the car is light enough some spring leaves can be removed. Each leaf removed lowers the frame ¼ plus due to the additional defection of the thinner spring assembly. I have five spring leafs on my speedster. This lowering may cause the drag link to rub on the wishbone on the right-hand side. Lowering the steering column will correct this dragging.

A dropped axle is also available on an exchange basis. Make sure the oil pan will have sufficient road clearance if you use all of this on the front. (Ed Forsythe, October 1979)

Replacing the Tack Strip Around the Seat

If you ever need to replace the wood in a Model T body, you will find that it is quite challenging, yet rewarding. One of the most important pieces of wood is the tack strip that goes around the seat. One Model T's made from 1911-1921, this tack strip was originally made of hardwood, steam bent to the proper shape. Not many of us has a steam bender, so an alternate method of making this strip of wood is necessary.

I have found that the cheapest and easiest way to form the tack strip is to use 1/8" plywood, laminated together. First make a template of the shape of the tack strip for a piece of pliable cardboard. Overlay the cardboard where the tack strip would go on the body, and then cut the cardboard out. Once cut out, double-check to see that the cardboard template matches the contour of the body and the shape necessary. It is easiest to make the entire tack strip in three pieces, using the laminated plywood ONLY on the "bent" portion of the tack strip and a straight piece of hardwood along the back of the seat.

Once the measurements are made, take the template and trace the shape onto the 1/8" plywood. Cut out six pieces of plywood and blue the pieces together to form the laminated tack strip. "Elmer's" type wood glue works very well for this. Clamp the tack strip to the body to form the curves as soon as possible because the glue sets up quickly. It is best if you use a clamp about every 6 inches.

When the glue is dry, take the rough tack strip off and sand the rough edges with a belt sander. Then apply some type of sealer (ie: Thompson’s Water Sealer) on the laminated tack strip and install on the body.

You will find that the tack strip is very strong and inexpensive to make. I have had this type of tack strip on my Fords for over 20 years with no problems and I encourage anyone to try this method of making a tack strip. (Russ Furstenow from T-Time in Canyon Land, reprinted in LST News 2000)

Door Hinge Oil (1916 Style)

Mix a little powdered graphite with linseed oil. (Maintain a car at low cost - 1916 style Submitted by R.A.L. (Montana)

Hinge Halves - Door

The hinge halves on the doors of my roadster were too worn for even new hinge pins to take up the clearance. I found that the unthreaded shank of a 1/4 bolt was a nice tight fit and removed yet another rattle from my T. Chuck the bolt in a lathe or drill and file a nice round contour on the head then cut the threaded part off so you have a smooth pin. (John Witt, Lone Star T News, 1989)

Hinge Pins - Door

Keith Cobb has discovered that at the hardware stores, shovel handle rivets make excellent door hinge pins and they are 10 cents each versus 65 cent plush shipping and handling and waiting from vendors. (Keith Cobb, August1998)

Hinge Rods - Hood

When removing or installing the hinge rods from a T hood, tap the rod out about 1/2 inch, then chuck the end in a variable speed drill. by running the drill slowly and pulling you can ease the long rods in or out of the hood with very little fuss. I learned this from my father who was an aircraft sheet metal specialist and used the trick to install the long piano hinges found on airplane control surfaces. It's not stock, but drilling a 1/8 inch hole through the hood sheet metal into the center hinge rod and installing a pop rivet will keep the hood rod from walking out under engine vibration. (John Witt, Lone Star T News, 1989)

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