Repair Crank Case Ball Socket

On many Model T's, the ball socket on the crankcase, the ball cap and the ball on the wishbone are worn enough to allow a Model T to wander down the road and to shimmy at the slightest inclination. It is extremely difficult to replace the ball socket on the crankcase as this item is riveted and brazed to the crankcase, so what is there to do to correct this probl

A very easy solution includes a quarter, a ball peen hammer and an old crankcase with a worn out ball socket. Take the quarter and place it in the ball socket and then hit the quarter with the rounded end of the ball peen hammer. What you have just made is an excellent shim for the ball socket which should last the life of the car. This remedy can also be used on the drag link, although smaller coins should be used. Hopefully, your front end will be as tight as new and that old Flivver will not "wander" all over the road, plus you just added $0.25 to its value. (Russ Furstenow , From T-Time in Canyon Country, reprinted in LST News 2000)

Roller Style Timer Maintenance

If you are still using a roller type timer as a few of us purists are, wash your timer out and dry it, then fill the timer case about 1/3 full of light grease. This helps prevent the two contacts from shorting out when the oil normally used is filled with iron particles due to wear. (Royce Peterson)

Roller Style Timer Problems

Until recently the TIGER name on a timer was our assurance of a reliable product. This is no longer the case. If you have recently purchased a Tiger Timer, inspect the tension spring for the roller contact. If you find that the spring has less than 21 coils, replace it with the spring from an old timer if possible. If you have access to a micrometer, check the spring outside diameter. The outside diameter of the Ford original springs is .180 inch. The spring wire size is .020 inch. There are 21 coils plus the two end loops. The new springs that I have checked are overstressed for the application, and have been known to break within five miles or less of driving.

Before you install any new timer, it is advisable to chuck it in a lathe and bore the roller path round and concentric with the outside diameter at the flange. This alone will eliminate bouncing of the roller contact and extend the life of the spring. This will also improve engine operation, especially at higher speed. It is advisable to examine the timer roller path every 2000 miles or so, and if any wear appears, then repeat the truing operation.

Proper lubrication is a must for reliable timer performance. Three in One oil is suitable. A mixture consisting of equal parts of kerosene and lubricating oil works quite well. (Hugo Richter)

Stopping Those Pesky Fuel Leaks

It seems that just about every Model T has a small leak in the carburetor or the sediment bulb. While I addressed a leak around the threads of the sediment bulb in an earlier issue of a T-Time, the problem of the needle and seat in the carburetor and the "tapered" shut-off on the sediment bulb was not addressed. These two areas have a tendency to leak because of wear and dirt. I've found that "lapping" the needle and seat and the shut-off valve and the sediment bulb body with a mixture of oil and baking soda (YES, baking soda!) stopped even the slightest leaks. I also tried thinning down toothpaste with water, yet found this compound was TOO harsh and the leaks continued.

If you have an early brass carburetor, lap the metal needle into the seat and then replace the metal needle with a neoprene needle. It will never leak again!!! (Author unknown, From T-Time in Canyon Land ~2000.)

Subtle Engine Discrepancies

Evidently some of the tooling used in manufacturing engines before the move to the Highland Park plant produced questionable results.

In the process of restoring an engine block for a 1913 Model T some discrepancies have appeared.

It did not seem that there was sufficient space adjacent to the nut for a wrench at one front main bearing. A small amount of grinding in that area outside the cylinder wall solved the problem.

When the camshaft was installed the large timing gear projected into the space to be occupied by the cover plate. I concluded that the front camshaft bearing had the locating hole incorrectly positioned. A comparison with other camshaft bearings showed that this bearing was correct. Measurement of the camshaft flange and the timing gear verified that these were correct. Conclusion: the locating hole for the retaining screw is approximately 1/8 inch too far forward in the cylinder block. The solution: machine just enough from the mounting face of the large timing gear to provide clearance at the front cover plate. This is the easiest part to custom fit, should it ever need to be replaced.

Step by step everything seemed to be in order until the pan was bolted in place. Now the fourth main bearing could not be seated on the rear flange of the pan. After other fourth mains were tried, it was concluded that the inside radius of the flange on the pan was too small. Grinding this feature to fit the 4th main solved that problem Here again the choice of what needed to be altered was based on the likelihood that the 4th main would ultimately be replaced. Any part from stock should not fit.

It is possible that this one cylinder block is one that got by. Someone must have assembled it the first time, possibly sing brute force. This alone suggests that the workers at that time were accustomed to solving similar problems, either by selecting parts which would work, or by doing some final fitting when such problems appeared. (Hugo Richter, Lone Star T's Newsletter, February 1992)

Timer Settings

When running a timer on your Model T, it is imperative that the timer be set properly to obtain the best running condition of your Ford. If the timer rod is not set or bent properly, the timer can advance too far and create knocking, which can destroy the connecting rods. With the spark lever fully retarded, the end of the timer rod passing through the timer MUST be 2 1/2 inches from the center of the bolt that connects the timing gear cover plate. This is the bolt that goes through the oil filler hole. Anything more than 2 1/2 inches will advance the spark too far and possibly create engine damage when the spark lever is advanced. (Author Unknown, From T-Time in Canyon Country)

Transmission Triple Gears

When rebuilding the Model T Ford transmission, it is important that a careful check be made on the No. 3313 triple gears.

The first gears made were three different diameter gears riveted together. Each gear assembly weighed two pounds. But starting in 1920, the gears were made from ne-piece and there were no rivts. The pitch of the gear teeth and their diameter were the same as those on the older style, but the weight per gear assembly was two and one-quarter pounds.

The triple gear assembly should be used in "sets" of three, one triple gear on each transmission gear shaft (part No. 3315). Depending on the model year of the Model T, either the riveted type or the one-piece type should be selected. If they are mixed, it will cause the engine to vibrate.

If the gear assembly is of the riveted variety, they should be carefully checked for loose rivets. If the rivets are only slight loose, they can be tightened by sing a hammer and punch with a support under the rivet. If the rivets are too loose or worn, new rivets should be installed. The better idea is to replace the gear assembly in its entirety using the new one-piece type. (Contributor Unknown)

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